[MCR] Wapta conditions.

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

I just returned from 6 days on the Wapta. Things have certainly 
changed again and not for the better as we thought "could" happen 
leaving on April 4th. Travelling up Peyto was good,  probably the 
best day was on April 4th.

April 5th at about 1100hrs noted the slab come out on Trappeur peak 
while hanging around the hut doing some skills stuff. Later that day 
did a quick  profile under Thompson and still found instabilities 
down about 70cm on an old facet or SH interface. This was on the easy 
side of a moderate compression. Also some instabilities in the newer 
storm snow.

Climbed Rhonda south on the 6th. The ridge was generally scoured but 
loading on the lee side which was variable, not slabbed yet.
The summit ridge was quite windblown and rimed and I thought quite 
well covered and without many exposed rocks. Still good skiing down 
the ramp and over to Bow hut, not much wind affect.

On April 7th headed over to Balfour hut. A few cm of new snow at Bow 
that morning, strong winds picking up and continued most of the day. 
It seems like 20-30cm of new snow blown in on the Vulture glacier, 
little to no visibility for rest of day. moderate to strong winds 
continued with snowfall overnight and all day on the 8th.

We stretched our legs going over to the Diaberlet glacier but barely 
got out of the flats as another wave of weather hit by mid day. 
Significant subsidences in Balfour pass. We turned around just above 
the pass due to the poor light and changing conditions.

Came out to Bow again on the morning of the 9th. -15 at Balfour hut 
with a stiff northwesterly wind.Visibility still generally poor but 
signs of newer activity on Olive were noted. A size 2 slab had pulled 
out on the Bow head wall as well. the slopes above Bow were quite 
wind affected with whales of soft slab getting stiffer the higher you 
got. The slope below the hut was not wind affected when we came down. 
The canyon was generally good with little wind affect, but still some 
isolated small slabs in the canyon walls.

Didn't see much of Mt Balfour in the 2 days we were there, and it 
wouldn't have mattered much. I would suspect the full traverse would 
be quite scary right now and "definitely" not recommended.

Peter


Peter Amann
Mountain Guide
pamann at incentre.net
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