[MCR] Rockies, Homage to the Spider, Mt Louis, etc.

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

Guided Homage to the Spider on Mt Louis yesterday, Aug 14th. The  
route is in great shape with all of the pitches dry and climbable as  
per Selected Alpine Climbs in the Canadian Rockies (although we never  
found "... where a bolt protects a move around a block"). There are  
now new ring bolts and bolts forming all of the stations up to the  
Medieval Alley, rappelling the steep climbing would be accommodated  
by these stations.

On Tues, Aug 12th, my guest and I rappelled away from threatening  
weather at the end of the second pitch of the CMC Wall on Mt Yamnuska  
(this is the station below the 5.11b crux pitch). Our rappel was very  
intimidating as 55 meters was in space and the ropes ended in space  
way down there. At about 35 meters down it was possible to -just- get  
some kick off and swing to grab good holds and climb over to a two  
bolt anchor on the right (General Pain?). From there the rapping was  
more normal and 57 meters to the ground.

On Monday we climbed Rain Check on Guides Rock ... never let it be  
doubted that Dave Morgan could handle a run out. The crux pitch  
should test the mental metal of most, I can say that it did for me,  
for the second time since the 80s.

Happy trails,

Barry Blanchard
UIAGM/IFMGA Mountain Guide
http://www.barryblanchard.ca
http://www.yamnuska.com
barryb3 at telus.net
1 403 609 4615
cell 1 403 609 1321













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