[MCR] Coire Dubh Integrale, Loder Peak, Canadian Rockies (Feb 10)

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

Coire Dubh Integrale, Loder Peak, Front Ranges, Canadian Rockies (Feb  
10)

Plastic ice, dry rock and rock-hard snow equals good conditions on  
Coire Dubh Integrale.

As far as hazards: From the top of the ice section, we observed some  
rocks rattling down from the right into the lower Coire Dubh ice  
gully. This ceased once the sun went off the face (i.e. 11am). There  
is enough snow on the ledges to melt (due to direct solar radiation)  
and lubricate the piles of scree waiting to be set free. As with all  
sunny ice climbs this time of year, an early start stacks the cards in  
your favour.

Of note: At the first mixed band (just above the top of the ice), we  
opted for the middle of the three lines (rightmost being the left- 
facing 5.7 corner and the leftmost being the 5.5 buttress with the two  
bolts at the start). The middle line is the thin ice runnel (as shown  
in the ice and mixed guidebooks) that does not often form. A #3  
Camalot (blue) protects the 10cm wide (2cm thick) section. Solid 13cm  
screws can be placed at the top of the ice before traversing left onto  
the M4 rock. I fixed a long knifeblade and a bomber Spectre for the  
rock section of this pitch since the gear is tricky. A new-ish two- 
bolt anchor is up and left on the big ledge for the belay. The upper  
rock pitches were dry and even offered some bare-handed climbing.

Sean Isaac
ACMG Alpine Guide







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