[MCR] Pilsner Pillar, Yoho National park, BC (Feb 14)
Public Mountain Conditions Report
mcr at informalex.org
Sun Feb 14 17:25:58 EST 2010
Pilsner Pillar, Yoho National park, BC (Feb 14)
As reported previously, the climb is in good shape with very plastic
ice (courtesy of the warm temps). The first pitch is skinny at the
bottom but good hooks mean you don't have to unnecessarily bash at the
slender pillar. The second short pitch has filled in and now offers
consolidated ice for picks and screws. Both pitches have sections
heavy dripping so leave the soft-shell clothing behind. The bolted
anchor at the top (on the right) is in a poor state of disrepair (one
rusty self-drive and one archaic ring bolt). It could definitely use
replacing with two new 3/8" bolts and Fixe rings.
Currently only a trace of new snow in Field, but more load and/or
higher temps would drastically increase the avalanche hazard
threatening this and other Field ice routes.
Sean Isaac
ACMG Alpine Guide
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