[MCR] Louise Falls, Lake Louise

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

Been up Louise falls a few times in the past few days. Few different options up but the safest line is around WI4+.  The first pitch we found it hard to get cover on the right side under the rock arch as the ice was almost too slushy to get a good anchor. The left side of the first pitch up to the tree is good to go just a bit wet. On the second pitch we stayed well away from the right side as it's got the biggest chunk of hang-fire overhead. The left side has a bit as well but much less than the right. Looks like it had grown a fair bit in between the days I was there and don't know if I'd want to be around it if it grows much more. Seems like the safest line is right up the middle into the cave on the second pitch. You're exposed to both left and right sides but only while your low down on the pitch. Pillar pitch is really hooked out and above that the ice is a bit unconsolidated but still easy climbing.

7 people below us at one point, with complete gridlock at the cave. All of these parties showed up at about 11am... on a long weekend. Might be wise to start early if you like being first.

Enjoy!

Mike.


Mike Trehearne
ACMG - Assistant Alpine Guide
m_trehearne at hotmail.com
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