[MCR] Spray River Falls
Public Mountain Conditions Report
mcr at informalex.org
Tue Feb 16 22:17:37 EST 2010
Guided Spray River Falls today, Feb 16. Another mild and calm day.
The climb is surprisingly dry with lots of chromey smooth ice. We
climbed through a large keyhole on the left side that placed us on a
comfortable belay behind the crux pillar. A recent abalakov there had
been badly chewed on by rock rats or pikas (the varmits must be
hungry as they ate the cord down to the core). The crux pillar felt a
half grade harder than Carlsberg Column (we climbed that yesterday).
One of my guests fell on the crux and dropped both his leashless
tools. I rapelled down and lowered him mine, with leases attached. In
retrospect, it would have been a good place to be using an umbilical
system. We were belayed in yet another keyhole/room on the left side
about 10 meters down from the top and descended from there being, 3
climbers with 4 tools, too bad because the climbing out of the cave
looked interesting.
Happy trails
Barry Blanchard
UIAGM/IFMGA Mountain Guide
http://www.barryblanchard.ca
barryb3 at telus.net
1 403 609 4615
cell 1 403 609 1321

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