[MCR] Coal Miner's Daughter

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

Guided Coal Miner's Daughter today, Feb 19. Refreshingly cold in  
Field at 7:00 this morning, -16 C via the car thermometer. Good to  
park in the "Monarch" campground parking lot, which has been plowed,  
and is on the left at the baracade to the Yoho Valley Road (signed  
"Monarch"). There is a snow shoe track that leads from there to the   
slopes below the climb. Our up track, possibly the first of the year,  
is set in sparse trees on the climber's left.

The route is a good adventure right now and probably a half grade, or  
grade, harder than the guidebook 4. No evidence of any other ascents  
this year. We belayed on the left and climbed about 20 meters of  
steep ice with a back supporting chimney for meters 15-20 (it felt  
like a poor man's version of the first 20 meters of Pilsner Pillar at  
present). Then a strenuous pull around to the right frontside and  
after a few meters you can stand on a ledge. The next 10 meters are  
like an exaggerated Cascade crux, ie: a delicate window pane with a  
fair amount of water falling plumb behind, but longer and steeper  
than Cascade. We belayed anchored to the old 12 x 12 inch wooden  
posts supporting an old mine portal. The narrow gauge track and ties  
provided a good standing platform. Overall a fun and adventurous  
route. The sun was on the route from about 10:30- 11:30 am, then it  
set behind Mt Stephen, but was back on the climb after we drove east  
from coffee in Field -about 1:00 pm.

We saw a party starting Silk Tassel at about 11:30, when we were  
driving to Field for coffee. I feel that I should reiterate that the  
start zones for avalanches on Silk Tassel are at the summit of Mt  
Field, some 4000 feet above the route. Those start zones had been  
getting sun since 9:00 am? Best to get Silk Tassel done at dawn on  
these sunny days. Further the belayer stood out in front of the route  
where I believe several people have been hurt, and two killed, over  
the years. Having been there two days ago I know that there is an ice  
cave that you can belay in (we did, early in the morning on  
Wednesday) and be much less exposed. I mention all of this in the  
spirit of safer climbing.

The KIcking Horse River has opened up from the bridge at the base of  
the Spiral Tunnel Hill to below Super Bock. The river is also surface  
flooding the ice, take a good look before walking out onto it.

Happy trails,

Barry Blanchard
UIAGM/IFMGA Mountain Guide
http://www.barryblanchard.ca
barryb3 at telus.net
1 403 609 4615
cell 1 403 609 1321












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