[MCR] North Cascades and South Coast

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

Spent the past 2 weeks wandering in the Washington Cascades and South  
Coast mountains trying to find the climbing. The weather has been  
pretty cool lately so I doubt there have been significant changes in  
conditions.

In addition to several days of cragging in Leavenworth and Squamish,  
we climbed the following:

June 12: Prusik Peak S Face, Enchantment Range. Snow level starts at  
5000 ft (Snow Lake) and travel was OK even in the afternoon with a  
decent packed trail from lots of traffic in the area. Route was snow  
free but crux pitches were a bit wet. Old school 5.9.

June 17: S Early Winter Spire S Ridge, Washington Pass. Snow is at  
road level (5000 ft). Good travel. We had about 10 cm of new snow  
overnight and a size 2 wet snow avalanche cleaned out the SW Gully  
route as we were standing beside it contemplating whether to go up  
it. Climbed the rock route instead in the mist and wet and it was  
snow free. Then descended the SW Gully after doing avalanche control  
to clean the remaining snow out. Some thin snow over rock in the gully.

June 19: Sharkfin SE Ridge, Boston Basin, N Cascades National Park.  
Snow starts at 5000 ft and it is pretty punchy in this area above  
6000 ft. Slow travel. Route has snow on the upper section which slows  
things down a bit. Major glide crack avalanches on steep rock slabs  
in this area.

June 22: Tricouni Peak N Ridge, South Coast (near Squamish). One of  
the creeks has eroded the road at about 3500 ft. It was impassable  
for us in the Tacoma but a spade, pick axe and some imagination might  
get you through it. Snow starts just over 4000 ft. Good travel all  
day. The route is in winter shape with steep snow and glide cracks on  
the traverse from the col to the N ridge. The ridge is mostly snow  
free. The descent is a bit tricky to regain the S ridge after  
bypassing the steep section, again with steep snow, cornices and  
glide cracks to negotiate. Foggggy in there yesterday.

Mark Klassen
Mountain Guide
mark at alpinism.com
www.alpinism.com
403-760-3337


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