[MCR] Carlsberg Column, Yoho National Park, Canadian Rockies (March 23)

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

Carlsberg Column, Yoho National Park, Canadian Rockies (March 23)

-1 C departing the car at 8 a.m. and 5 C when we returned to the car  
at noon. Overcast skies all morning kept the sun hidden, which made me  
a happy guide. It would be best to put crampons on at the car as the  
approach trail is pure ice.

Believe it or not, but the so-called "approach" pitch felt like the  
crux. Currently, it is a three-foot-wide, six-inch-thick curtain. It  
felt fragile but luckily it is riddled with rattly, insecure hooks so  
I didn't need to bash. Definitely wouldn't put screws in it as they  
would poke right out the other side. Unless that is your thing, I  
would recommend doing the scramble around right to get to the climb  
proper (I would myself next time).

The main climb is really wet but offers excellent ice--the one swing  
kind of stuff that dreams are made of. There wasn't a single hook,  
which was a pleasant change from the standard beaten-out, late-season  
ice. In retrospect, I wish I was wearing full Gore-tex today instead  
of soft shell. Did I already say it was wet?

Sean Isaac
ACMG Alpine Guide







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