[MCR] Coire Dubh Integrale

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

Guided Coire Dubh Integrale today, November 9. We climbed to the summit 
of Loder Peak and descended the ridge to highway 1-A .

Right now, there is no climbable ice on the route, although crampons 
were used for some verglas in the narrow part of the gully. This proved 
to be the crux due to challenging gear placements and the soft nature of 
the verglas. A few knifeblade pitons are useful in this section. The 
rest of the climb was done in mountain boots, easily avoiding all slushy 
ice.

Temperatures varied from -6°C to -2°C, although it felt much warmer in 
the sun. There was a small amount of snow in the shadow of Loder Peak, 
but never more than 5 cm deep. The lack of snow increased the rockfall 
hazard, although no natural rockfall was observed. The wind was light 
and variable on the route and ridge top winds were moderate to strong 
from the west.

All in all, I would say that in its present condition the route is still 
a good climb, but it is more enjoyable when there is ice.

Have fun, take care,

Grant Meekins
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures <http://www.yamnuska.com/>


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