[MCR] Rockies, Middle Snow/Ice Gully Mt Andromeda

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

I guided the middle Snow and Ice Gully on Mt Andromeda yesterday,  
October 3rd. Despite above zero temperatures throughout the day (plus  
1 to plus 7) we had very good conditions on the approach, and on the  
route. Lots of activity in the Icefields during the rain event  
earlier in the week, a number of size 1 to 2 avalanches off of most  
steep ice slopes were the rain made the snowpack wet and cut the bond  
with the ice. Even a size 3 off of the Silverhorn and North Ramp  
route. Given freezing temps the alpine climbing is very good as the  
moist snowpack sets up well. Lots of ice smears remain from the rain  
at present.

We ran into sloppy wet snow on the southeastern exposure leading down  
to the AA Col. I wouldn't have felt good about being on any big open  
slopes on that aspect late in the day.

I'm on a campaign to change the name of these climbs away from the  
"Practice Gullies" as the route that we climbed yesterday is as long,  
and of better quality, than the routes on the N Face of Mt Fay (see  
photo below).

Happy trails,

Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
www.barryblanchard.ca
www.yamnuska.com



I've taken to calling the left hand climb "Far Earth", the middle  
"Middle Earth", and the right "Near Earth". The slope leading to the  
AA Col (not pictured) is "Little Earth". Join the campaign, lobby any  
guide book authors that you know.
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