[MCR] Rockies conditions; Mt. Huber, Castle Mountain, Athabasca, Victoria, avalanche poodle

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

Just finished an 8 day advanced mountaineering course in the Rockies: 

Lake Ohara September 11 & 12; Grassy ridge- dry and good..then. Huber had double pen, shin deep trail breaking. I chose the North face direct line as the NNW and NE lower angled snow lines looked to have good pillows and seemed slabbed up - good decision as we heard about the Japanese guy on Athabasca when we were out. On the descent we took the normal route down, staying within the rocks on the East end of the slope as it was shallower and then traversed into the more supported terrain and compression zone towards the middle of the slope. Though quick field tests did not produce significant results I did not feel that comfortable when we crossed. 

September 15 we did Castle Mountain and it was in fine condition. There is new snow on it since this time however and it seems to be sticking. Cold temps at first but then it warmed up and we had a fine day

September 16 we went to do Athabasca, the lower tongue of the North Glacier is pretty much just walking with the new snow on it, about 20 to 30 settled. I was not too keen on avalanche conditions so we just played around on the North glacier.

September 17 we went attempted North summit of Victoria. - 6 at the toe and + 7 at 1 p.m. during a brief intense green house effect during the inversion we were having. Full on white out the whole time. As I was guiding from the back on this advanced course - thank God! It took two strong lads 7 hours to post hole and navigate from the Parking to the Schrund. 

HST was 10 cm's, below 2600 Meters there is from 10 - 25 cm's of wet settled snow with a 3cm ice crust down 5. Above the snow pack is now up to 1.5 meters with heavy knee deep trail breaking. The snow between 2600 and 3200 hundred had a high moisture content, was well settled and was homogenous. If we get a real good freeze its gonna be cement. Crevasses were well bridged as was the bergschrund. We abandoned our attempt sticking to a pre-arranged turn around time. Back to the parking in our post holes took 2.5 hours from our high point. Tracks in if anyone wants to venture up there!

Overall I consider it was a good week despite the dismal forecasts as we never got rained or snowed on once! Or avalanched on for that matter. Oh yeah met the Japanese guy who was on Atha b - he stayed at the ACC club house with my guests. He said in his opinion that since the slope had avalanched it was now safe. I told him we hired avalanche poodles. you can hire him at www.iwillbeyour_komakaze_avalanche_poodle.com

Happy trails, see you all at the AGM- be there or be square,

Eric Dumerac - Professional Mountain Guide - IFMGA/ACMG, CAA II ,CSIA II


✆Canada: Canmore 011- 403-609-1564  ✆France: Chamonix +33 6 37 25 85 37

 		 	   		  
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