[MCR] Polar Circus and Weeping Wall

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

Climbed Polar Circus and Rt hand Weeping Wall yesterday with fellow guide Mike Verwey.
It was only -2C when we left the car at 0700 for Polar Circus ( a bit warm for my liking) but with sufficient cloud cover we made the dash. We were off the route before the sun came out and the solar impact took hold. There have been a few wet slides on the approach slopes but the middle bowl still has a winter snow pack and I would stay away from this route on sunny and/or warm days. There was also evidence of new snow being loaded above the route  so again, avoid warm sunny days as this new snow could get moving very easily. The cornices that often form on the side walls above the upper part of the route are present but smaller than most years. All in all the route is in great shape and hasn't had much sun effect yet.

Rt hand Weeping Wall is coated in a layer of sun baked ice but still very climbable albeit to get good protection one has to clean a fair amount of ice. An early start is also wise as there are features of ice in the center of the wall and to the right that will start pealing with the heat of the afternoon spring sun. The Upper Wall appears to be in good climbing shape but will deteriorate rapidly with a few more warm days.

Rob Owens
ACMG MG
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