[MCR] Mt Aberdeen; Lake Louise Group, Rockies

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

Perfect conditions on Aberdeen yesterday. 

The snow tongue is bare ice and seems easier than usual, the snow at its
base coming up higher and the tongue itself seems to bulge out more making
the angle less steep than usual at the bottom. There are embedded rocks in
the tongue waiting to melt out. Rain effect and a good sprinkling of graupel
were evident on the mountain to the summit. 

The overnight freeze was weak and above the ice tongue a supportive and
sometimes breakable crust overlies moist snow beneath making for good step
kicking. Firmer as one gets higher. There is a good bridge over the
bergschrund middle left and the upper serac seems to have receded a good
amount on its left side near the ascent line. In its center however it is
quite active thankfully away from the ascent line. Above the schrund, the
exit to the col, though of moderate angle, is very firm ice glazed neve
which while offering very positive crampon and tool placements does not
allow for step kicking or ice screws. It would only be protectable with
pickets/flukes. Some small gear or pins may be useful in the adjacent rock. 

Aberdeen is an excellent outing right now.

I also had a good look at South and North Victoria, Unnamed and they looked
very snowy for August. Mt. Temple looks to have had some new snow overnight
on the summit.

Sent on behalf of:

Eric Dumerac -  Mountain Guide - IFMGA/ACMG
Mountain Skills Academy 
msacourses.com



 

Peter Tucker
Executive Director
B: +1.403.949.3587
M: +1.403.689.4324
ed at acmg.ca  |  www.acmg.ca


 

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