[MCR] Mt Temple, Greenwood-Locke Route, Rockies

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

On August 2nd Crosby Johnston and I climbed the Greenwood/Locke on the North
Face of Mt. Temple. The route was in fine condition, which made for a quick
ascent (9.5 hrs)

 

In the parking at 4am the temp was 3 C. The snow in the gully on the right
hand side of the 'Dolphin' was firm and offered fast travel. We encountered
a small patch of ice on the first traverse before the second icefield. The
first 2 pitches of technical climbing (climbed in one 55m pitch) were
covered in a thick layer of verglas, which made for fantastic mixed
climbing. The traverse left to the base of the rock buttress was covered in
snow and ice. Once on the rock buttress we climbed 6 pitches to the top
(with a little simul-climbing). The rock was mostly dry and only had minor
sections of snow and ice (except for the last pitch, were we donned our
crampons). 

 

Of note: a significant rock fall event occurred above the first 2 pitches of
technical climbing (just minutes after Crosby had left the belay). Also,
there are many large cornices and snow mushrooms hanging on.  

 

To view a short video of the ascent click on the link here.
<http://vimeo.com/27267883>  

 

Images attached:

1. 'right hand' gully

2. Traverse above first 2 pitches of climbing

3. Upper buttress below crux pitch

 

Joshua Lavigne

ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

 <http://alpinesummits.blogspot.com/> alpinesummits.blogspot.com

 

 

link to video of ascent:  http://vimeo.com/27267883

 

Image 1.



Image 2.



Image 3.



 





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