[MCR] Morro Peak SW face

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

Climbed the Chimney route on Morro Peaks SW face  a couple of days ago.
Of note was that there are a number of pitons missing both on the 
first and second pitch.
On the first pitch found only the one bolt about 35 metres up....

On the second pitch it seems there are at least a a few pins missing 
on the lower half of the pitch. I placed one near the start, and 
another near the crux (which we had to remove)
Worth taking a few along! (long lost arrows and bugaboos)
right now from the last pin half way up the pitch to the crux section 
where there is a really old pin,  is  about a 15 metre runnout.
Not sure what happened here but you need pins to protect this area.

I know some of the upper pitches had the anchors re-bolted but I 
couldn't find any of them on the "line" of the route....

On the upper section of the face, above the trail we climbed 3 more 
pitches I loosely call "old School" nice rock but the bolts were put 
in by Hans Schwarz about 10 years ago and they are older Euro bolts 
with allan key screw ins and I used screamers on all  of these. Very 
nice rock leads to a treed ramp that heads right and then a short 
pitch leads very close to summit...( a bit runnout but some good 
horns are found as well.) It is about 5.5 -5.6 for some short 
sections. There is a 4th pitch which I have climbed before but it is 
kind of rough, has no belay anchor and needs a bit of work..

Peter Amann



Peter Amann
pamann at incentre.net
-------------- next part --------------
A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
Name: old school.jpg
Type: image/jpeg
Size: 283592 bytes
Desc: not available
Url : <http://six.pairlist.net/pipermail/mcr/attachments/20110806/002d20cb/attachment-0001.jpg>