[MCR] Wooley-Diadem-Alberta

Public Mountain Conditions Report mcr at informalex.org
Sun Aug 14 16:21:49 EDT 2011



Jasper Visitor Safety staff were training for the last 4 days in the
Wooley-Diadem area. We found a variety of conditions during our stay, but
generally both Wooley and Diadem are very active in the heat of the day
with solar sluffing, rockfall and serac fall. Large cornices remain above
the regular route on the SE face, as well as lots of snow up high. We chose
to climb the “Crescent Couloir” (see attached pic) which provided excellent
step kicking from bottom to top thanks to a light overnight freeze. Snow
was beginning to become mushy as we crested the summit ridge at 0830.
Travel down to the Wooley-Diadem col was supportive and easy. Descending
the left hand couloir at 1030am had us dealing with a mushy top 10cm above
a firm midpack that allowed us to downclimb in big bucket steps. There is
still a lot of snow to come down this feature and it is best to be here as
early as possible. Significant rockfall hazard exists in the traverse from
this couloir back to the central gully. The N ridge up to Wooley from the
col looked in excellent shape.
Travel over Wooley shoulder is mainly dry and in good shape. Lingering
snow patches make travel more pleasant and the descent quick. Mt Alberta
was shedding lots of snow off the East face and the ridge routes are still
holding a fair bit of snow. See attached pic.


The Athabasca river was easy to fjord in the morning on the way in, but had
risen to waist deep by 1600 yesterday on our way out.

(See attached file: Diadem MCR.JPG)(See attached file: Alberta MCR.jpg)


Max Darrah - Alpine Guide



Visitor Safety | Sécurité Publique
Jasper National Park of Canada | Parc national du Canada Jasper
Parks Canada | Parcs Canada
P.O. Box 10, Jasper AB T0E 1E0 | C.P. 10, Jasper (Alberta) T0E 1E0
Max.Darrah at pc.gc.ca
Telephone | Téléphone 780-852-6289
Facsimile | Télécopieur 780-852-4775
Government of Canada | Gouvernement du Canada
www.pc.gc.ca/jasper

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