[MCR] The North Peak of Mt Victoria

Public Mountain Conditions Report mcr at informalex.org
Sun Aug 14 22:09:04 EDT 2011



Hello,

John Freeman, Jason Billing and I guided the North summit of Mt Victoria today via the Victoria/Collier Col. Temperatures well above zero didn't inspire confidence in route conditions as we started the day however we found great travel conditions on the glacier. We were also able to climb to the col with minimal overhead cornice hazard using a center line on fairly unpleasant rock. Other than a short section above the bergshrund and 30 meters below the col we avoided traveling on the snow. There were no issues crossing the bergshrund. The cornices are very large from the col towards the summit of North Victoria and need to be given a wide birth.

Jesse de Montigny
ACMG Mountain Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures

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