[MCR] Mt diadem ava accident jul6

Public Mountain Conditions Report mcr at informalex.org
Sat Jul 9 11:52:14 EDT 2011



Jasper National Park Visitor Safety staff responded to an avalanche
accident on Mt Diadem July 6.

2 climbers left bivi site below Mt Diadem at 5am with intent to ascend the
SE face. They made it to 50m below summit cornice when they turned around
and descended. At approximately 1500hrs, nearly 2/3 of the way down, they
were caught in an avalanche carrying them for ~200m. The 8.2mm rope between
them broke during the ride. They were on top of the debris when the
avalanche stopped. Person 1 had pain in his lower back, possible broken
ankle and sprained knee. Person 2 suffered rope burns to his arm, strained
his knee, and significant scuffs to his helmet. After picking themselves
up, person 2 marched out to call for assistance. Person 1 hobbled his way
to the bivi site.

Upon arriving at the highway, he realised his keys were at their bivi site.
He hitched a ride to town and reported the incident at 2100hrs. Due to
failing daylight and weather, a helicopter could not access the location.
Visitor Safety staff retrieved the patient at first light the following
morning.

Both were released from the hospital with minor sprains and bruises. The
back pain was likely the result of his harness riding up when the rope
broke bruising muscles. Both extremely lucky to walk away from this one.
They mentioned that their 5am start was not early enough for the objective
and conditions plus during their hike in the previous day, natural activity
was widespread. Weather was sunny and warm at the time. It appears that the
avalanche was initiated by a cornice failure at the top.

Current conditions at the time of writing Saturday 9am, jasper townsite:
+6, raining with snowline @ ~ 1900m+, ~2100m at the Icefields. It has been
raining in the valley and snowing at elevation consistently since Thursday
night. Looks wintery up there again.

(See attached file: mtdiadem ptlocation jul62011.pdf)

Garth Lemke
Public Safety Specialist
ACMG Assistant Ski Guide

Spécialiste, Sécurité publique
Guide de ski auxiliaire, Association des guides de montagne canadiens

Jasper National Park of Canada | Parc national du Canada Jasper
Parks Canada | Parcs Canada
P.O. Box 10, Jasper AB T0E 1E0 | C.P. 10, Jasper (Alberta) T0E 1E0
Garth.Lemke at pc.gc.ca
Telephone | Téléphone 780-852-6158
Facsimile | Télécopieur 780-852-6135
Cellular Phone | Téléphone cellulaire 780-852-8811
Government of Canada | Gouvernement du Canada
www.pc.gc.ca/jasper


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