[MCR] Rockies, South Ridge of Mt Edith

Public Mountain Conditions Report mcr at informalex.org
Sat Jul 23 19:47:56 EDT 2011


I guided an ascent of the classic South Ridge of Mt Edith today, July
23rd. It started snowing 1 cm/hour just as we started the first
pitch. There is a patch of snow at the base of the route that is
easily stepped behind. I climbed all of the 5th class pitches with
gloves on and over wet rock. There is a good series of bolt/piton or
bolt/bolt anchors up the centre rib/ chimney of the climb (either I
missed the first station in the gully or it is at about 70 meters).
This is a change from the past when I would step out of the gully to
the right to gain balconies for sheltered belays. The rest of the
route is snow free, as is the scramble/descent route.

Happy trails,

Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
www.barryblanchard.ca
www.yamnuska.com




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