[MCR] Rockies: Lyells

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

Greg Golovach and I were at Lyell Hut with a group the past few days.  
Thursday and Friday were spent passing the flask around trading  
stories while blizzards, rainstorms, hail, lightning and wind raged  
outside.

Today dawned mostly clear with a weak freeze but cloud caps on the  
high summits. Dreams of a quick run across the icefield to the peaks  
were dashed by a breakable crust that made travel tedious. Greg  
climbed Lyell 2 while I climbed Lyell 4 via the north ridge, both  
ascents were in fog. Lyell 4 was sporty, the snow arete was very  
steep and the rock pitch snow covered. The upper ridge has large  
cornices and is steeper than I remembered, perhaps due to it being a  
winter ascent this time round. I swear I was climbing 75 degree rime  
feathered snow up there.

I fixed another nut at the rap station so it seems pretty solid with  
two wires and a fixed pin of unknown vintage. I also fixed a knife  
blade at the top of the small rock pinnacle below the rock pitch.

This afternoon freezing levels were up to 3200 m with moist and wet  
snow on the surface. The walk back to the hut was desperate with calf  
to knee deep double penetration in sopping wet snow.

Mark Klassen
Mountain Guide


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