[MCR] Weeping Wall

Public Mountain Conditions Report mcr at informalex.org
Sat Mar 12 08:33:19 EST 2011


Up to the Weeping Wall yesterday after deciding there was too much new snow for the Trophy Wall.

The entire wall is feeling the effects of the powerful Spring sun and an early start is required.

We went up the Center line and a good amount of cleaning was needed to find solid protection. Long screws were nice to have. Lots of features for the feet but the climbing was at the guidebook grade.

Of note were the large (fridge size) chunks of blue ice that covered the entire left side of the base of the wall.
All of the normal belay spots for the first pitches of Sniveling, Left Hand and the Center line were obliterated. The culprit looked to be the sun and broken daggers from high up on the left side of the wall.

More and more rock is getting exposed on sunny days. It was worth it for us to plan our line from the road in order to minimize the hazard climbing, standing or belaying with something fragile above us.

Have fun!

Mike Stuart
ACMG Alpine/Assistant Ski Guide





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