[MCR] Rockies, Louise Falls

Public Mountain Conditions Report mcr at informalex.org
Thu Mar 17 19:32:33 EDT 2011


I guided Louise Falls today, March 17th, green rope, and wee
leprechaun of a fellow guide in tow with my guest. Happy St Paddy's
day to you all.

The big blue Louise Falls is in fine shape. The crux feels like pumpy
hooked out grade 4. Huge daggers are running with water, and gaining
mass on climber's right. We belayed under the protection of the rock
roof 1/2 ropelength up and then did a long pitch to climber's left of
the pillar, walked behind it, belayed, then climbed the pillar via
climber's right. The top out on the route has been filled in, and
smoothed over with snow. Some snow mushrooms are hanging above the
exit and may be a threat later on a sunny day (tomorrow?). The walk
off was all snow walking and down climbing, no ice exposed anymore.
Numerous mushrooms hanging over the walk off (It is a great snow
year, no?). The trail cuts across the avalanche slope mid path to get
back to the base, but felt like a ribbon of steel today. Having said
that we did carry beacon, probe and shovel up the route and down the
descent -specifically for the descent.

'Beannachtam na Feile Padraig!'

Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
www.barryblanchard.ca
www.yamnuska.com



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