[MCR] Rockies: Mt King Edward

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

Just back from a trip in to the west side of the Columbia Icefield.

We climbed King Edward on Tuesday May 10 and then moved camp to be in  
position to climb onto the main Columbia Icefield via the route  
leading through the steep gullies and exposed ramp beside Mt Columbia.

May 11 and 12 were spent waiting for cold temperatures below this  
route. Yesterday and today were both very warm with no overnight  
freezes. We recorded +8 at 2000 m yesterday about 6 pm. We gave up  
this afternoon and hitched a ride out with Don McTighe's Bell 407  
that was conveniently passing (kind of) nearby.

The weather was mostly cloudy with the high peaks obscured the entire  
trip with only brief sunny breaks. Last night we had a few cm of wet  
new snow. Today saw the occasional light rain shower and ice pellets.

There have been lots of cornice falls and wet snow avalanche activity  
on all steep slopes.

We are in the first major heat-up of the spring and I suspect that  
even the highest peaks now have moist and wet snow surfaces with  
freezing levels around the 3000+ m mark. The snowpack today at 2000 m  
was isothermal with foot penetration about boot-top in thick snowpack  
areas and knee deep or worse near rocks. Yesterday ski penetration  
was up to knee deep in wet snow in thin areas on moraine walls.

Mark Klassen
Mountain Guide


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