[MCR] Rockies, Mt Columbia

Public Mountain Conditions Report mcr at informalex.org
Tue May 17 20:08:04 EDT 2011


I guided an ascent of Mt Columbia via the Athabasca Glacier, May
15-17. There is great snow coverage on the Athabasca Glacier and we
were able to ski towing sleds from the toe. The road is not open as
of today, May 17th, so you have to carry down, and back up, it.

We passed the first step of the 'Headwall' on the climber's right,
the second on climber's left, and the third up the 'Ramp' on May 15th.

May 16th we skied away from our highcamp (3 kms south of Snowdome) at
5 am and got to Mt Columbia about a half hour behind my fellow
guides, Conrad Jansen and Simon Robins, and their 4 guests. They were
nice enough to kick steps up the SE ridge for us. The ridge has seen
several recent ski descents (the face too). Great step kicking
conditions and a nice calm time on top.

May 17th, 20 cms of snow overnight with moderate southwest winds.
Whiteout navigation to the top of the Ramp were the wind had scoured
out a lot of crevasse openings, portals to the underworld. Strong SW
winds at ridgetop. We scooted out skiers left through lots of recent,
and spooky, serac debris off of Snowdome. Those seracs seem to be
quite active, and big, as of late.

Happy trails,

Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
www.barryblanchard.ca
www.yamnuska.com


Conrad and Simon heading up to kick steps for us.

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