[MCR] Athabasca conditions May 28-30
Public Mountain Conditions Report
mcr at informalex.org
Mon May 30 21:53:47 EDT 2011
> Just returned from 3 days at the Columbia Icefields, working with Grant
> Meekins on the Yamnuska Snow and Ice long weekend.
>
> Day 1: Parker¹s Ridge wind lip is very large allowing for multiple large
> groups to work on crevasse rescue. We found the slopes on the way up to be wet
> but still useful for snow walking and self arrest training. Afternoon
> convective snow squalls came in repeatedly.
>
> Day 2: Athabasca North glacier, crampon and ice axe use. Crevasse rescue
> practice. We opted to stay low on the toe expecting large amounts of snow
> higher. Several features provided a good venue for a variety of crampon
> techniques and easy access to ice for anchors with the thinner snow cover.
>
> Day 3: Today in the campground we woke to clear skies, 0°,calm for a 0300
> start of the AA col route to Athabasca.
> Solid freeze overnight provided excellent travel. We chopped steps on the way
> up across snow pockets in the upper part of the rock band before the upper
> Andromeda glacier. We then used crampons up the AA Col slope, all the way to
> the summit and back. The slopes below the col have had widespread moist
> avalanches, which have improved stability and deposited large amounts of
> debris across the bergshrund providing solid bridging. Variable clouds
> throughout the day helped to preserve the freeze allowing for easy return off
> the summit and down the AA Col.
>
> Hard to imagine better conditions for a summit day
>
> John Freeman
> ACMG Assistant Alpine Guide
> offroute1 at gmail.com
http://offroute-again.blogspot.com/
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