[MCR] Mt Robson, Sept 10-12

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

I guided Mt Robson via the Kain Route Sept 10-12, with guests Clint 
Evangelista and Joe Delamont.

Despite the recent hot, clear weather, there is still a lot of snow on 
the mountain. After arriving by helicopter on the Dome on Sept 10, we 
witnessed numerous wet snow avalanches down the Kain Face, and several 
large cornice failures from the ridge on either side of the face. 
Daytime heating was our primary concern, especially descending the Kain 
Face in the morning sun. We therefore decided to climb the route at 
night, taking advantage of the full moon. We started climbing at 5:30 pm 
on September 11th, with the face out of the sun and the cornices shaded 
by thick cloud cover that had developed during the day.

The bergschrund is easily crossed on the left side of the face, at a 
spot that is unfortunately threatened by a cornice.The face itself had a 
firm crust overlying wet snow. There was no ice; all anchors were in 
snow. The horizontal ridge at the top of the face was much easier than 
in past years, but caution must be exercised due to the huge cornices. 
There was a well-trodden path that was often too close to the crest of 
the ridge. There is now another trail further away from the cornice that 
is a better choice, especially in warm temps.

The upper ridge was easy travel in bucket steps up snow. We reached the 
summit under clear skies and a full moon at 11:30 pm. The moonlight was 
so bright that headlamps were not necessary. On our way down the 
mountain, we were treated to a display of northern lights, and we 
arrived in camp at 5:00 am.

All said, conditions on the Kain Route are very good right now, 
especially if cold temperatures are encountered.

Grant Meekins
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures <http://yamnuska.com/>
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