[MCR] Bugaboos July 28-Aug 2

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

Just finished a great week in the Bugaboos with Yamnuska's Intro to Alpine Rock Skills course. The weather was excellent, with good overnight freezes and a few late evening showers, but none of the intense thunderstorms that some folks experienced in Rogers Pass and Canmore during our trip. The rock was dry on the spires, with all of the classic routes getting ascents daily. The Bugaboo Snowpatch col is in great shape. No exposed ice and a line of bucket steps leading to the top from heavy use. The bergschrund at the base is only showing signs of opening at the far climber's righthand side, and two smaller ones are open on the climbers left side at 3/4 height. These will probably force the track further to the right as the summer continues. This will expose people more to rockfall from the Kain Route of Bugaboo, so being there before anyone is climbing above you, and the sun hits the slope will become even more important. We chose to use crampons ascending the col due to firm snow, but others were making it up without them.

While climbing Lion's Way in the Crescent area we found a very loose spike of rock on the second pitch. It has been there for years, but now seems like a gentle pull of the hand will send it flying, to the detriment of those below. With many people choosing to cue up behind others on this route take care not to grab it, as it is right in the line of ascent! On Pigeon Spire you can now climb to the summit without stepping on snow. On one day we used the Pigeon-Snowpatch col rappel route to gain the Pigeon Fork Bugaboo glacier. This is a great descent route when the BS col becomes hazardous due to warm temperatures, rockfall and/or crowds. It is well described in the Piche/Atkinson guidebook.

Lots of folks out enjoying the Bugaboos, starting late on big, serious routes, getting caught high on the mountain during the evening rainstorms just before dark, running around unroped on glaciers in their running shoes and not paying too much mind to the fact that they are not at a roadside crag. Though you may see a lot of interesting tactics up there, stick to your guns and do what you think is right! Get up super early and play safe! 

Jason Billing - Alpine Guide/Apprentice Ski Guide
Steve Blagbrough - Mountain Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures

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