[MCR] Mt.Athabasca, August 8th

Public Mountain Conditions Report mcr at informalex.org
Wed Aug 8 19:48:18 EDT 2012


Photo of Mt.Athabsca taken yesterday.

-The North Face looks very icy with recent rockfall.
-The Silverhorn looks like slow going, with ice from the bergschrund to the top.
-Point releases yesterday from the right side of the Silverhorn were depositing enough debris on the Ramp route to partially bury you, or push you off your feet, deposit you into the crevasses below the Ramp route and then bury you.
-We had a good freeze overnight for our ascent of the AA col route today. This route is now either a mix of snow and icy gullies at the top, or snow and then heinous scree. The shcrund is still passable on the climber's left side.
-All routes on Mt.Andromeda look equally uninviting with lots of exposed ice and rockfall.

A really good overnight freeze, and a very early start and descent are a good idea for these routes right now. All in all, it's probably more enjoyable to go climbing on other routes in the range that are in better condition for a fun and safe ascent!


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Jason Billing
ACMG Alpine Guide/Apprentice Ski Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures




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