[MCR] Rockies: Mount Huber (Aug 8 and 9)

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

I spent the past two days guiding on Mount Huber above Lake O'Hara in  
Yoho National Park.

August 8: We retreated from halfway up the upper glacier due to  
incoming electrical storm but had a rockfall near miss on the descent.  
Almost immediately after exiting the climber's rightmost of the two  
gullies that split the upper section of the Huber Ledges, a barrage of  
microwave- to television-sized rocks strafed the gully. If we had been  
5-10 minutes later, we surely would have been vapourized. The trigger  
was most likely the rain (although it was fairly light at that time)  
or even possibly the very high winds we were experiencing. There is a  
small lingering snow patch high above this gully whose meltwater could  
have also been the cause.

August 9: Summitted Mount Huber with different guests in near perfect  
conditions. A solid freeze made for fast travel on the two glaciers  
and a straight-up line of good steps cut the face to the summit. The  
bergshrund is well bridged and easily crossed. Cornice hazard is  
minimal but still present. By the time we were descending the face at  
10:30am, the freeze was gone and the steps were getting soft making  
for easier downclimbing, but I wouldn't want to be any later. Needless  
to say, we had a good rest before the rockfall gullies then moved  
through them very quickly. Total exposure time was about 10 minutes  
and we tried to minimize  the exposure by hugging the side walls.

Sean Isaac
ACMG Alpine Guide

E: sean at seanisaac.com
FB: Sean Isaac Guiding







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