[MCR] Morrison/Tarrant Buttress, Mt. Odaray & Prime Rib, Mt. MacDonald - Aug. 9/10th

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

*Morrison/ Tarrant Buttress, Mt. Odaray - August 9th*
**
*Conditions:*

   - The rock was dry, and all snow patches on the ascent could be avoided.
   - Well consolidated snow on Odaray glacier made for good step kicking on
   descent in afternoon. Still good coverage on the glacier.  Nice to have an
   ice axe on steeper slopes.

*Additional Information:*

   - The route description created by Tom Wolfe that is available on the
   web seemed to work pretty well for us.  There are some loose bands of rock
   on this route, but they are relatively short lived, with lots of pretty
   good rock in the quarzite and limestone bands, so perservere!
   - We took the 'Y chimney' through the black band - starting in the right
   chimney, and traversing into the left, which worked well.

*Prime Rib, Mt. MacDonald - August 10th*

*Conditions:*

   - Dry rock.
   - Approach to MacDonald had some firm snow in the gulley (we used
   crampons), but the snow was undercut by meltwater in many spots, and we
   used caution to ensure we were on supported snow.  Otherwise, thick Selkirk
   bushwacking to reach the base.
   - We didn't place any pitons on the route, although a hammer was usefull
   to check fixed pins.  There were 5-6 fixed pins on the 11a traverse pitch.
   - We replaced/ backed up many of the slings on the rappel anchors.

*Areas of Concern:*

   - A trail to the log crossing Connaught creek is flagged from the W end
   of the pullout on the W side of the 'Lens' snow shed (the second shed you
   reach if travelling E from the Pass).

Great conditions in both areas.  Nice to have a few lightning-free
afternoons!

Ian Jackson
ACMG Aspirant Guide
Visitor Safety Technician
Banff, Yoho, & Kootenay National Parks
www.parksmountainsafety.ca
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