[MCR] Coast Mountains - Wedge Mountain Aug.14/2012

Public Mountain Conditions Report mcr at informalex.org
Wed Aug 15 23:36:44 EDT 2012


Just got back from a lap up Wedge Mountain. Climbed the superb NE Arete
route. Travel on the Wedgemount glacier was easy on firm snow despite balmy
temps (+3C at 3:30 am yesterday). Crevasses are still well bridged low on
the glacier. The route ticked all the boxes: firm snow, Olympian position
and good ankle deep steps in situ. We descended the West ridge/SW slopes
which is only recommended if you love choss, bonus kilometers and
unsolicited vertical gain. Best to regress via the NE arete.
Of note; all the other north face routes including the Flavelle route showed
signs of recent rockfall and were sporting large 'schrunds that would best
be described as grotesque.
The West Couloir lacked the offending 'schrund of the aforementioned routes
but was also freshly peppered with stonefall.
Cheers
Paul McSorley
Squamish BC



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