[MCR] MCR, Northern Selkirk Mountains

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

Hello 

Have spent the summer at the Mt.Moloch Chalet, guiding alpine climbing guests at the many incredible granite routes and to the scenic peaks. So far it was one of the most interesting summers I ever have experienced in this amazing granite area, where all approaches are on glacial terrain. With the large snowpack from this past winter, which is at most glaciers over 2500 metres elevation still well over 6 metres deep, and the classic summer heat the glaciers are moving at a faster "speed" than I have observed in previous summers. Looking at the speed the crevasses split, I estimated approximately 1 metre of glacial movement during the time-span of 3 days at elevation 2500 metres. This fast moving of the glaciers has been visible for weeks, as daily glacial avalanches have been created by collapsing ice towers. Also the bergschrunds have indicated fast movement of the glaciers, as they quickly became extremely wide and deep, the main glaciers separated with a good rate of flow from the actual mountain ice-sheet. This week I have observed several times that strong crevasse snow-bridges of well over 6 metres in thickness completely collapsed. As the glaciers maintain fast flowing speed the overlaying snowpack started to build up tension on the crevasse snow-bridges, eventually this tension reached the point of a complete collapse of the entire bridge. I changed my spacing in between each rope member while travelling on glaciers, using now a larger distance in between each person. Also I definitely avoid crossing crevasse snow-bridges if possible ....... just to avoid a complete collapse of a large snow-bridge. 

Well, all the great snow, making approaches to the various amazing granite rock-climbs easy, created a new problem. Potential crevasse falls can be much more serious.

Enjoy the rest of the summer and be safe.

Ruedi Beglinger
Selkirk Mountain Experience
I.F.M.G.A / A.C.M.G. Mountain Guide
www.selkirkexperience.com