[MCR] Wedge Mt

Public Mountain Conditions Report mcr at informalex.org
Tue Aug 21 00:36:14 EDT 2012


Conditions on Wedge have changed since the last report due to the very warm temperatures last week. The lower glacier is snow free to 6700' although the neve above this elevation was firmly frozen allowing for fast travel. Bypassing the icefall is now bullet proof ice for 100m as is the slope leading to the saddle on the ridge. The north arete is still snowy but thin. There is again more ice leading to the final rockband or the icey exit gulley. We climbed the ice although some parties are going to the rocks however that option looks very loose. We descended the route although used the ridge toward the Mt Weart col to avoid the ice under the Wedgemont icefall.
Bring screws for the route.

Tim Pochay
IFMGA Guide


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