[MCR] Borgeau Left - Rockies

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

Hey there,
Just back from a great day out guiding Ben up Borgeau Left. Overall the route's in great shape and worth heading up to do.Good track in right to the base which was a nice way to start the day.Although not overly obvious from the ground, once you get started you can feel the recent traffic in the first couple pitches. Good hooks if you look for them, made the climbing a bit easier for us.From the base of the route you can get good quality (at least 16cm) screws where you want them, no need to bring the shorties up there right now.The last pitch was awesome, and definitely the highlight of our day up there (crux). A steep chimney feature lined with mushroomed and chandeliered ice led to about 10m of steep, plastic goodness to top out. A beautiful pitch of climbing, probably pretty solid WI5.
The top half of the route, depending on your chosen line was a bit wet in places, but not to bad.
With respect to the overhead hazard, we were pretty careful to keep an eye on the winds aloft, or anything really, that could have adversely affected or increased the load on the windslabs overhead. Winds were light, occasionally gusting moderate and the sun was out for a bit but with no punch to it at all. No new snow while we were there.
Nothing for new/recent avalanche activity that we were able to see. A bit of sloughing from the steep terrain directly around the route. Nothing near big enough to be a problem for a climber though... just enough to fill my hood :)
Have fun out there!

Mike TrehearneAlpine Guide & Apprentice Ski Guide Cloud Nine GuidesPhotos up at:www.facebook.com/cloudnineguidesor email:mike at cloudnineguides. 
 

 		 	   		  
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