[MCR] Rockies, Bourgeau Left Hand

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

I guided and ascent of Bourgeau Left Hand yesterday, Jan 11th. The approach trails starts at the back of the shipping containers and is good through the trees. Above the evergreens the trail was lost to wind blown snow and we slogged through a couple hundred meters of tedious post holing until we gained the avalanche debris in the far, up-valley, side of the runout zone. Snow shoes, or skis, would have accelerated the approach. Another tactic would have been to stay in the timber close to Healy Creek until getting into the above mentioned part of the runout zone as I've heard that the avalanche that ran there (over the holidays, I think) ran all the way to the creek. We happily walked on top of the debris.

A winter morning around -20 C, the ice on the first pitch was brittle and the climbing slow in big, big boots (Spantiks) and thick gloves. The ice is  still well attached to the rock there, no gonging. Amazing to step into spring when the sun came around. Some moist snow trickling off of the cliffs with the sun and the surface snow in the half way ledge/bowl/wee-solar-oven got snowballish and moist with direct sun, but then froze to drywall quickly when the sun went away.

The rest of the route is in fine shape with the final pitch formed narrowly compared to past decades.

Happy trails,

Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
www.barryblanchard.ca
www.yamnuska.com

ps, I forgot my camera, pictures below courtesy of my rope-mates, Chris and Matt.
pps, Thanks to the other party who showed up behind us for waiting until we were on the halfway ledge to start. Far safer for everyone and a good play.

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first pitch

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last pitch