[MCR] Peyto Approach

Public Mountain Conditions Report mcr at informalex.org
Thu Jul 5 15:24:21 EDT 2012


Climbed in the Peyto area June 30 -July 2.

Approach to Peyto - See attached photos.
Since the Upper Canyon bridge has been washed out we crossed the river at the Peyto Lake delta, approximately half way between the lake and where the terrain tightens. If you pick your line across the river you can minimize the crossing to a maximum of knee deep and an average of about 1 foot deep for about 30m of moderately moving water.
This puts you on the north side of the river.
Where the terrain tightens and the river butts up against the hill there is about 250m of side-hilling to get past the river and into easier terrain. The majority of the side-hilling is currently soft dirt and it is easy to scuff-in OK steps. There is exposure to the water moving below you. I don't think it would sweep you away but a slip into the river would be a day wrecker and could result in an injury. Climbers confident on their feet should be OK. It will likely only take a dozen or so people going through this section until there is a bit of a trail.
There is also one bouldery move (see second photo) up a short rock section of about a body length. It isn't overly difficult. There are small but positive foot holds although the rock where your hands are isn't that great. You can spot the person on the rock section reasonably well from below.
There is probably a higher line that would avoid this little rock section.
From there it is about 30 min up to Cauldron Creek which needs to be crossed to get back on the normal trail.

Geoff Ruttan
ACMG Mountain Guide 
geoffruttan at yahoo.com
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