[MCR] Rockies, Lake O'Hara and environs

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

I guided out of the Elizabeth Parker Hut July 16-20.

July 16 we climbed the North Ridge of Mt Schaffer which was dry and pleasant. Our ice axes were useful on descent into the Schaffer Bowl directly above Schaffer Lake as we encountered about 100 metres of snow. It may be possible to avoid all snow by descending farther to the south towards McArthur Lake.

July 17 we climbed the Grassi Ridge on Wiwaxy Peak which is dry and has been equipped with bolted anchors, many of them below knee level. We had to cross a couple of short snow slopes on the descent and made do with approach shoes and ski poles although light mountaineering boots and an ice axe would have been better.

July 18th we did some rock climbing around the Lake O'Hara shores.

July 19th we climbed Mt Odaray via the SE Ridge. Great summer snow coverage on the glacier, it looks like a big wedding cake. The ridge was gained via the left hand "couloir" option and that was a bit horrid and plenty serious, the devil's work. If I went back today I'd take the right hand option off of the highest possible point of snow below the bergshrund (we rappelled down this way). The canted slate tables out of the col are tedious and we bypassed them on descent on the large snowslopes that sit, at present, on the backslope of the mountain. The ridge above the shale to the summit is in good shape and can be climbed all on rock avoiding any snow and ice.

July 20th hiking and then dealing with the Banff mudslide.

Happy trails,

Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
www.barryblanchard.ca
www.yamnuska.com

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Lake O'Hara, July 19, 2012