[MCR] Wapta Icefields - Peyto Exit

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

Just out from a mini Wapta Traverse (Bow to Peyto) for the UofC with fellow
ACMG member Phil Wilhelm.
 
We had quite the tempest that rolled in on the night of the 20th with
lashing winds and heavy rain that continued all night.  Not sure if that may
have caused these cornice triggered avalanches that went quite large on Mt.
Baker:
 
  
 
On the 21st we had excellent travel conditions on very well consolidated
snow with no visible weaknesses.  On the 22nd after a solid overnight freeze
with clear skies we donned crampons to descend the Peyto glacier.
Widespread sun cups on the snow surface made for attentive walking.
 

 
Cauldron creek was raging pretty good by noon.  No way I would want to cross
that by walking on the stream bed.  Fellow guide Fridjon Thorleifsson did a
great job building a log bridge that we cairned on both sides.
 

 
I'm guessing the water levels have increased since Geoff Ruttan's July 5
post as we were forced to side hill well past the treed constriction in the
photo below before we could drop down to the gravel flats.  There are now
good deep steps cut into the bank for the northern half of the traverse (we
traveled in the forest for the first half but were forced back down towards
the river by deadfall half way across).  The short rock climbing step is no
longer required (or possible at these water levels I believe).
 

 
We crossed multiple braids in the river delta with hut sandals to reach the
trail on the east side.  We made the mistake of exiting the gravel flats at
the first large slide path but this requires a 150m bush whack through tight
nasty alders to regain the trail so we waded back out to the gravel flats
and finally exited at the slide path that empties right into Peyto Lake (the
one that the trail switchbacks inside of).  If you were hiking in to the hut
I would recommend crossing here as well since these lower braids have to be
crossed at some point anyway.  
 
Water levels have made for a lot of messing around on this route now - start
early to give yourself lots of time to deal with constantly changing
conditions.
 
The mosquitoes were fairly aggressive in the forest starting and finishing
the traverse. 
 
Cheers,
Shaun King  ACMG Mountain Guide
 <http://www.facebook.com/mountainsense> www.facebook.com/mountainsense
 
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