[MCR] A2, boundary glacier, North glacier loop

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

Climbed A2 today with a party of 18.
Decent  travel up  boundary glacier, other parties came up North 
Glacier and we switched descent routes making for loops.
A bit punchy in shallow areas on ascent up from boundary lake but 
once on the glacier travel was good. Above 2500 metres foot 
penetration was about boot top on way up.
The hanging serac on the boundary glacier looks quite overhanging and 
we stayed far right lower down till we were beyond it.

On the descent things softened up quite a bit. Our party came down 
the north glacier and then traversed off right to the meadows below 
Boundary Peak. Travel lower down was quite tedious in unsupported snow.
Still a lot of snow up high and the snowpack varied from 1.5 to near 3 metres.
The weather was quite unsettled, snowing lightly most of the day.

Still a lot of snow just above Boundary lake and without a good 
freeze the lower sections would be slow going. Some serac fall from 
the east face of Athabasca came across the ascent route though do not 
know how old it is.

On another note, the icefall that came from Athabasca north glacier 
some time this spring/winter?, has deposited ice all across the area 
where you head to go to the North Glacier left side. Seems this is 
happening every 15 years or so.
The one from this year ran quite far up the opposite side of the 
valley with interesting blocks melting and forming small monoliths.

Peter Amann, Cyril Shokoples, Matt Reynolds, Jeremy Mackenzie.
Mountain Guides.


Peter Amann
pamann at incentre.net
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