[MCR] June 1; Castle Mountain Eisenhower tower & Bow Valley multi-pitch conditions

Public Mountain Conditions Report mcr at informalex.org
Mon Jun 18 04:01:24 EDT 2012


Greetings,

I climbed Eisenhower tower on Castle Mountain with two guests Friday June
1st. There is still snow on the approach but we were able to do most of it
with approach shoes, then switching to boots for the last of the forested
slopes (gaiters a good idea). The route itself is dry and was very
pleasant. Snow is found only in the gullies, large ledges and summit "snow"
slope. The descent however is more challenging than usual as there is no
choice but to rappel in the upper gully which is filled with steep slippery
snow (ice axe would be useful!) requiring a step kicking down climb to
rejoin the stations/rappels of the head wall ascent route. One can however
easily make secure bucket steps.

As well over the last week I have climbed on Yamnuska, Kid Goat and EEOR
with guests. We climbed mainly face routes (Red Shirt, Twilight Zone,
Geriatric), and found surprisingly little in the way of loose rock I would
expect to be generated from the recent torrential rains. Several routes on
these cliffs do still have snow melting on them and are seeping, no doubt
causing rockfall. These are very visible and easy to avoid.



*Eric Dumerac* <http://www.facebook.com/MountainSkillsAcademy>* - Professional
Mountain Guide *
** <http://www.mountainskillsacademy.com/>*Mountain Skills
Academy*<http://www.mountainskillsacademy.com>
*Owner/Operator*
*[image: Inline image 2][image: Inline image 3]


*
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