[MCR] Rockies Waterfall Ice - Junkyards, Louise Falls, Moonlight and Snowline, Haffner.

Public Mountain Conditions Report mcr at informalex.org
Sat Mar 31 21:10:03 EDT 2012



Hey there,
Some observations from the last 5 days spent ice guiding from Canmore. The recent warm weather has started to deteriorate some of the lower elevation ice routes we visited this week, a few of them probably won't be around for much longer.
The Main Area at the Junkyards is still doing fine, although starting deteriorate a bit. The little curtain that touched down on the climbers left side of main area was barley standing and likely to collapse if it hasn't already by now. Despite getting a little bit rotten a large chunk of the main area should still last while longer.
Louise Falls is the biggest I've seen in a while with space for at least three ropes/lines leaving the cave. The main line right up the centre is probably the easiest with big hooked out features the whole way up the pitch. Left side of the left pillar was a little tougher and the pillar on far climbers right has seen a bit of traffic, but being the steepest and least traveled, was the hardest line out of the cave. Ice was still in great shape on the whole.
Moonlight and Snowline in Evan Thomas Creek, are hanging in there but barely. The first pitches of both lines are in rough shape, but got better as we climbed into the 2nd and 3rd pitches. Moonlight looked to have slightly thicker ice to start, but was starting to delaminate from the wall behind. First good screw went in at about 20 meters off the deck. Snowline seemed a bit more delicate, and took some very thoughtful climbing not to completely knock down the bottom 10m. of the route. First good ice screw went in at about 25 meters out.My guess is Snowline could be done for the season if the warm weather in the forecast shows up next week or if it sees a heavy handed ascent. Moonlight might have a bit more time, but it's definitely on the way out.
At Haffner the pure ice lines are still doing fine, but a lot of the thinner ice features at the tops of the mixed lines in the main area are getting to rotten to be of any use. We saw lot's of the big snow mushrooms collapsing off the upper walls and landing in the main area with the daytime warming as well.
Enjoy the rest of the weekend!

Mike TrehearneAlpine Guide / Assistant Ski Guidemike at cloudnineguides.comwww.yamnuska.com

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