[MCR] Rockies, Amadeus

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

I climbed Amadeus today, November 7, with my friend, Juan. The climb is in marginal and serious shape. Almost all of the ice is detached with water running behind it, hopefully tonight's cold temps weld it back to the rock. We took, and used, a pretty full rock rack. A number 3 camalot would be great to have on the slab pitch. We took a belay on rock left of the first pillar at the far end of the slab. We could see daylight, and water, behind the first pillar and opted to climb a good dry tooling crack that leads to the three bolt halfway belay on the left side. The upper half was climbed on ice, almost all of which gonged.

A fresh 5 cm of snow in Canmore right now.

Happy trails,

Barry Blanchard
UIAGM/IFMGA Mountain Guide
http://www.barryblanchard.ca
http://www.yamnuska.com
barryb3 at telus.net
1 403 609 4615
cell 1 403 609 1321

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