[MCR] The Urs Hole - Cascade Mountain, Banff Park

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

Based on having enjoyed a couple of fun climbing days in the same location
at the same time *last year*, I returned (with friends) to The Urs Hole on
Thursday, Nov 15 2012 to take a look.

We found the route to be thin in places, but all there. There is
significant water flow in the drainage, mostly beneath the ice surface.
Each of us had at least one 'foot soaker' from punching through soft slab
into running water.

My main curiosity was to find out what had become of the huge, glacial-like
avalanche debris deposits *under which* (by headlamp) we traveled last
year. What would have been the roof overhead at this time last year has
melted out by more than 50% and has, largely, collapsed leaving many
kitchen table to passenger van sized debris blocks in the drainage. One
thin, 'dinosaur neck' like bridge remains overhead. It would seem unlikely
for it to remain intact under the strain of its own weight.

The angular nature of the debris, along with a lack of cohesion among the
ice blocks (two large blocks shifted and collapsed in our passing), and the
remaining overhead hazard led us to turn tail and get out of there. We
didn't proceed to the upper pitches.

Also, of note on the descent: The anchor bolts at the top of the second
pitch are *both* badly damaged. The ring bolt hangers are significantly
deformed, both bolt studs have been levered out of the rock by 10mm (and
bent), and the nuts on the studs are effectively 'mashed'.

[Photo attached: Looking down at debris blocks with the 'dinosaur neck'
feature above (obscured)]

-- 
Mark Miller
ACMG Apprentice Hiking Guide / Top Rope Climbing Instructor
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