[MCR] Sir Donald Rappel Stations (# 11 & 12 reposition and replacement)

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

Hello Everyone,Last posting unfortunately the photo wasn't attached -
pardon me.

I hope everyone has been enjoying the fine weather up until now.

It was reported to us towards the end of this summer that the last Sir
Donald descent rappel (# 12) was damaged as a result of a rockfall event
that likely took place this spring.

Myself and Danyelle Magnan climbed up 1/3 of the NW Ridge route and then
descended from station # 5, where the rap route leaves the ridge and
descends the face.  Our aim was to assess the damage to station # 12 (the
last one) and to possibly reposition the station to avoid exposing climbers
to additional rockfall exposure as well as repeated damage to the stations
themselves.  Upon arriving there it was evident that the station # 11 had
sustained some damage as well.

There is a very big and obvious light coloured rock scar in the large
left-facing corner system above these last two stations (approximately 150
meters above) with enormous precarious looking blocks that remain from that
aforementioned rockfall event. Additionally, there are loads of very
unstable and loose rocks strewn all about the ledges just below this
station which adds additional rockfall potential when pulling the rope
after the rappel.

We repositioned the stations approximately 40-45 meters to the climber's
left or skier's right on the darker quartzite which mitigates the overhead
hazards and will keep folks out of the pain funnel. They are both 25m raps.
The route description remains the same. If you are familiar with the old
stations, rather than traversing into the light coloured rock, continue to
scramble/downclimb ~10m staying in the dark coloured (ie. not scarred)
rock. Station # 11 is now ~ 40m to skiers right of the old location. The
bottom of the 11th rappel puts you on another sloping ledge just above an
big overhanging break which is visible below you from that station.  The
final rap (Station # 12), takes you over an overhang and is a free-hanging
rap for about 3-4 meters, then on to the lower angle slabs and finally to
the scree/talus at the bottom

* Please note station # 12 needs an additional anchor bolt which will be
installed early next week - for anyone going up there in the next few days,
a .75 or 1 Camalot will back up that single bolt *


Play Safe,


Paddy Jerome
IFMGA Mountain Guide
Visitor Safety Technician
Mount Revelstoke & Glacier National Parks
Ph. 250 814 3524
patrick.jerome at pc.gc.ca
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