[MCR] Field to Icefields Parkway

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

Hello all,

Friday I guided a late season ascent of Guinness Gully. I found surprisingly great spring conditions on this classic. The first 10m of pitch 1 had some hollowness but beyond provided good opportunities for protection. Pitches 2 and 3 are fat. Of note, crampons are still effective on the approach and the initial ice is quite thin.

Saturday I went back Field with friends Jesse and Kendra to climb Guinness and Carlsberg. From the TCH Carlsberg looked sun effected. We were surprised that after the initial 3m the spring refreeze has completely rebuilt the LH pillar. The RH pillar looks close to collapse and the approach pitches are not there. The alternate scramble approach to the right was almost free of snow. Pilsener fell down in the past week. 

Sunday with same friends, changed to ski mode. -5C at 0800 below Mt Patterson. We were still able to find snow bridges over creek to base of SE couloir. Not a lot of snow at valley bottom but just enough to keep skis on.  Recent storm snow seems well bonded to sun crusts. 0-15cm soft slab provided reasonable ski quality. We avoided final 100m because of increased wind effect. Lower fan just softening at 1230h. 

Jesse and I ventured to the Icefields yesterday morning. At present there are snow ramps through each icefall that allow ascent to the final headwall without exposure to the Snowdome serac fall on the right. We overnighted in King's Trench and ascended Mt Columbia this am. -15C at 0500. Chilly but clear morning. It is still winter on the Icefield. We climbed the S Ridge. Bergschrund is mostly filled in across the east face. 0-15 cm wind pressed slab overtop early April sun effect.  Crampons and ice axe were useful on ascent of up to 50 deg crust. Thankfully this crust held a good ski edge during an engaging icy descent. 

0-10 cm ski pen across Icefield made for good travel. Of note, about 1km SW from top of headwall a team of glaciologists have set up camp for the next two weeks. They reported 6m snow depth on the ice cap.

Brent Peters
Apprentice Alpine Guide
CAA Level 2
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures

Sent from my iPhone