[MCR] Purcells - The Bugaboos.

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

Hey There,
Been home a few days now, but have been up in the Bugaboos since the 23rd of July minus an exchange day in the middle. During the trip I'd guided ascents of most of the central spires, Bugaboo, Snowpatch, Pigeon and Crescent via a variety of routes. 
The first week in, was for the most part warm with stable weather throughout the week. Despite the warm daytime temps most nights saw good overnight recovery in the snowpack and travel first thing in the mornings was generally pretty quick. No real precip to speak of and the spires were in great (dry) condition for the duration. 
Our 2nd week in was the start of what seems to be the unstable weather we're currently experiencing, down south here at least. Objectives were made fairly challenging by rain nearly everyday and the occasional electrical storm associated with. We climbed the west ridge of Pigeon with consistent rainfall our first day of the week, managed our way up Lion's Way in a short dry spell on the 2nd day, retreated from the halfway mark on the North East Ridge of Bugaboo Spire the 3rd day due to rapid convective buildup, and climbed the Ears Between on the Donkeys ears, again with the rain on the last day. 
The Bug-Snowpatch Col has been hanging on, the snow has pulled down about 20m below the col exposing ice for a few of the last moves to the top, and the snow is noticeably thin for about the last 40m. Not sure how much that will change this week with the incoming rains... Travel was still quite good and not much for rockfall happening yet. There's a few spots where folks have poked legs through the bridge over the berschrund(s), but it's easy enough to deviate around if you're willing to step out of the donkey trail for a few minutes.
Crossing from the B-S Col to the Pigeon-Howser Col has also been well traveled, and although there's a few holes opening along the base of the north side of Pigeon, the crossing was pretty much a hands-in-pockets journey across. 
Despite all the moisture, we didn't get any snow, verglass or icy conditions on the spires at all, just a bit more slippery than usual. As long as that doesn't end up being the case with the continued low pressure this week, the spires should be quickly back in shape with the return of some warmer, dryer weather.
We'd been looking at the East Ridge of Temple for tomorrow, but with the forecast we're going to try to go get good and pumped at the Back of the Lake instead.
Fun couple weeks in the hills! Hope your all having a great summer!

Mike TrehearneAG/ASG
Blog & Photos at:www.cloudnineguides.com/blogwww.facebook.com/cloudnineguides 		 	   		  
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