[MCR] Mt Athabasca

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

Fellow guides MB Board, Darek Glowacki, Greg Golovach and I climbed the NF bypass yesterday. Mixed precipitation throughout, snow above 2400m. The upper mountain was rimed with snow and ice. The "Scottish" gully is in great shape and took 16cm screws. We descended the ramp which had 5cms of new wet snow.

Today MB Board, Darek Glowacki, Keith Reid and I climbed and descended the Silverhorn. Freezing level last night dropped to 2400m with frost on the approach talus at the toe of the glacier. The Silverhorn had 5-20cms of rimed snow over ice. It was some of the best conditions that all four of us had experienced. Until it drifts in, there are nice belay ledges every 60m. A clear day today with snow softening on solar aspects. However, in the shade below the Silverhorn the new snow on the glacier still felt firm at 1400h.

It looks like the rock step on the NF proper is holding some ice and snow.

Brent Peters
Apprentice Alpine Guide
CAA Level 2
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures

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Darek in the Scottish gully.

Sent from my iPhone