[MCR] Rockies, Bear Spirit, Carlsberg Column

Public Mountain Conditions Report mcr at informalex.org
Mon Feb 11 06:59:43 EST 2013


I instructed at Bear Spirit on Saturday, Feb 9th, with my fellow guides Carl Johnston and Grant Meekins. The area is in great shape with a lot of ice and a good packed trail leading to it.

Yesterday, Jan 10th, I guided an ascent of Carlsberg Column. The route is in challenging shape with the present climbing line taking the right hand side. The ice was brittle early yesterday morning as it was surprisingly cold in Field. There is a risk of breaking off something large on the right hand edge of the steepest curtain (I got a large cracking sound there). The left hand side of the climb is sporting a fresh ice surface but hasn't merged with the right hand side well yet so the traditional 'line of least resistance' isn't filled in. Above the bolted half way anchor it is all more normal for Carlsberg. I got good screws on both pitches.

We climbed the first pitch, from ground zero, after climbing the upper pitches (didn't want to get scooped). The first pitch is in decent shape.

Happy trails,

Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
www.barryblanchard.ca
www.yamnuska.com






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