[MCR] tantalus traverse, coast range

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

Spent Monday and Tuesday on the north to south traverse of Mt. Tantalus.  We were a party of 3. We did a planned Bivi on Monday night near the summit of Tantalus. Helicopter access in and out was utilized.  We flew in Monday morning to the Zenith/Tantalus col and out Wednesday afternoon from the Haberl hut.

Tuesday night saw the first overnight freeze and crust recovery in a long time(Haberl hut-7,000 feet elevation)  there is still a lot of snow on the ridge line, including some cornices, subsequently adding to the spice of the endeavor!  All the ice falls enroute are very active producing avalanche results to size 3 and 4.  Specifically the Rumbling glacier where no one travels anyway.  The Serratus ice fall did run in the last 24 hours.  Many gullies holding snow continue to shed rocks.

The snow travel was excellent with perfect step kicking and very stable vertical axe self belays.  No snow avalanches other than ice falls and small micro snow patch/rock events.

On the gully descent on to the Serratus Glacier I did come across a 2 bolt anchor complete with chain!  Of the six rappels we did, on the whole traverse, I added fresh sling to 4 of them.

Moderate southerly ridge top winds dominated the trip which helped alleviate the debilitating heat.

Chris Lawrence
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
CAA Professional member
chris.lawrence at shaw.ca
604 892-4686 mob
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